Meta Description: Confused about whether to use 20 or 30 volume developer with bleach? This in-depth guide clarifies the differences, helping you choose the right developer for your hair type and desired results. Learn about lift, damage, and how to avoid common mistakes for safe and effective bleaching. Achieve your dream hair color with confidence!
Understanding Volume Developers
Before diving into the 20 vs. 30 developer debate, let's establish a foundation. Hair bleach, also known as hair lightener, doesn't actually add color; it lifts or removes existing melanin (natural hair pigment). Developer (hydrogen peroxide) is the oxidizing agent that facilitates this lifting process. The volume number (e.g., 20, 30, 40) indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide. Higher volume means a stronger, faster lift.
What Does Developer Volume Mean?
- 10 Volume Developer: Provides minimal lift, mainly used for toning or depositing color. Often used for lowlights or for glosses.
- 20 Volume Developer: A gentle lift, suitable for subtle lightening or blending highlights. Good for darker hair to a lighter color, or to cover grays.
- 30 Volume Developer: Provides a significant lift, ideal for achieving dramatic blonde shades. More powerful but causes more damage to the hair.
- 40 Volume Developer: The strongest, used for extreme lightening and is only recommended by professional hairdressers with years of experience.
20 Volume Developer: The Gentle Approach
20 volume developer offers a slower, gentler lift. It's less damaging to your hair than 30 volume. This makes it a safer option for those with already damaged hair or for those with darker hair color that needs to be lightened slowly and gradually to avoid excessive breakage.
- Pros: Less damaging, better for sensitive scalps, gradual lightening process
- Cons: Slower lift, may require multiple applications to achieve desired results
30 Volume Developer: The Powerful Lift
30 volume developer is more powerful, resulting in a faster and more significant lift. This is ideal for achieving dramatic blonde shades or lightening very dark hair. However, it is significantly more damaging to the hair.
- Pros: Faster lift, significant lightening power
- Cons: More damaging, greater risk of breakage and scalp irritation, requires more caution and technical skill
Which Developer Should You Choose?
The choice between 20 and 30 volume developer depends on several factors:
1. Your Current Hair Color:
- Dark Hair (Levels 4-6): Starting with dark hair requires a gradual lightening process. It's generally recommended to start with 20 volume and potentially work up to 30 volume after assessing the lift in multiple sessions.
- Medium Hair (Levels 7-8): You might be able to achieve satisfactory results with 20 or 30 volume, depending on the final desired level and hair type.
- Light Hair (Levels 9-10): 20 volume is usually sufficient for subtle lightening or toning. 30 volume may cause excessive damage.
2. Your Hair's Health and Texture:
- Fine or Damaged Hair: Always opt for 20 volume developer to minimize further damage.
- Thick or Coarse Hair: You can safely use 30 volume, but proceed with caution.
3. Your Desired Results:
- Subtle Lightening: 20 volume is perfect for subtle highlights or a few shades lighter.
- Dramatic Blonde: 30 volume will likely be necessary, but understand the risk of damage.
Minimizing Damage Regardless of Developer Choice
Regardless of your chosen developer volume, take the following precautions to minimize damage:
- Strand Test: Always perform a strand test before applying bleach to your entire head. This will help determine processing time and assess potential damage.
- Deep Conditioning: Deep condition your hair regularly to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair shaft.
- Use a Bonding Treatment: Bonding treatments help protect and strengthen hair during the bleaching process.
- Professional Help: For complex or dramatic color changes, consider seeking a professional stylist to minimize risk of damage and achieve optimal results.
Conclusion
Choosing between 20 and 30 volume developer involves understanding your hair, your desired outcome, and the potential risks involved. While 30 volume provides a faster lift, 20 volume offers a gentler approach, minimizing damage. Always prioritize your hair health and consider consulting a professional hairstylist for complex bleaching processes to achieve your dream blonde safely and effectively. Remember, healthy hair is beautiful hair!